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White-Seal 100% Acrylic Elastomeric Reflective Roof

A polyester material is utilized because it will stretch with the coatings. (Fiberglas material is not suggested.) Fabric is usually cut to extend three inches beyond the repaired area in all directions. The covering is applied to the roofing system surface and the material is immediately pushed into the damp surface area.

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If your roofing has stucco parapets, analyze them for cracks along the sides and top. These areas often permit water to get in the wall and can cause blisters and wrinkles in the roof surface area. Repair with Elastek 103 Fracture & Joint Sealant. If you do not have parapets, examine the metal drip edge for a tight seal with the roofing membrane.

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Apply covering when the roofing is dry and the sealant has actually set. You will be using a 9-inch sturdy frame, -inch paint roller for spreading finishing on roofing system or 1-1/4-inch roller for dipping in pail, and a 5to-6-foot extension pole. Utilize a 3/4-inch roller with basecoats and emulsions. Draw up your roof and make each pail fill that area.

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A low-cost 3-inch or 4-inch brush ought to be utilized to reach areas not possible with a roller. Utilize a stiff paintbrush for using 103 Fracture & Joint Sealant. Overcoat needs to constantly be applied in an extremely thick coat, to attain a rate of 100 sq. ft. per gallon, and a dry coating thickness of 10 mils.

Coatings are applied with a minimum of working the item for an optimum density. Work right from the pail, dipping the roller or put on roofing and spread. Offer scupper and ponding locations numerous additional coats for added defense. Permit each coat to dry before recoating. In cool weather condition, one coat a day is the optimum; 2 might be possible in the summer.

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ft. per gallon, or a minimum of 20 mils dry covering. If two complete topcoats are not applied, constantly apply two thick coats to issue locations such as scuppers, drain locations, ponding areas, seams, and fixed locations. Avoid using Elastek Solar Magic or The Shield on ponding roofs. Clean skin and tools without delay with water.

These are the wires connecting the roofing system venting fan. I clipped them just above the blue splice joints. Roofing system vent removed and cleaned up. After clipping the wire and removing the vent, I tidied up any staying goop and got my first good take a look at the roofing system frame. It's metal! 1 1/2 inches thick.

Some Recreational Vehicle roofing systems are framed with wood, others have metal framing. I had no concept what was in my camper until this point. Not too pleased about the quantity of rust on it, but hopefully it is still structurally sound! I scraped off some rust and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Possibly I must have put a tarp down first. My last goal of the day was to get the fridge vent cover off. I observed Recreational Vehicle sealant blobs at 4 points on the cover so presumed there should be screws under them. I pried them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

Exposing the screws in the refrigerator vent cap. Peeling off old RV roof finish on top of fridge vent cap I also saw that there was a coat of RV roof finish over the vent cap. These coverings are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this finishing simply blobbed in on top of everything.

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Taking off the cover of the fridge roofing vent. When the cap is off it's more of the exact same. Removing more rubber and scraping off Recreational Vehicle roof sealant and old caulk. Get comfortable due to the fact that this sucker has 32 screws in it! Ugh. Scraping lap sealant and caulk from screw heads.

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Some screws will be too rusted and need pliers to remove. Prying off the refrigerator roofing vent after all screws are eliminated. (and the tools used.) Nearly every screw was in sufficient condition to eliminate with a socket chauffeur, but a couple were too rusty and required to be twisted out with vice grip pliers.

I removed the remaining rubber roof from under the flange and after that removed the old putty beneath. I'll clean it better if and when I decide to reuse it. Looks like it remains in good shape so I probably will. Removing the old putty from the flange of the refrigerator roofing vent.

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I scraped the framing inside the opening and discovered that the framing around the fridge vent is made of wood (unlike the metal frame around the roof vent.) Then I covered it up with a scrap of wood so I wouldn't drop any scrap into the fins on the back of the fridge! Here's a peek inside the fridge vent.

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That's as far as I got on day 1 after about 5 hours of lazy work. Not a bad start. I also saw this amazing slime mold growing in the mulch under the camper. If you've never ever seen a slime mold, check out a long time lapses of them growing! They are freaking remarkable! A slime mold under the camper! Now continue to step 2 when I eliminate the rest of the roof components!.

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